Free Climbing in Ogliastra
Baunei– A real paradise for climbers! Baunei’s territory hosts different sectors, close to the sea, 300 pitch sport climbs to choose between single and multi-pitches, including the well famous multi-pitches to ascend the stunning cliff of Aguglia pinnacle in Cala Goloritzè, the “Villaggio Gallico” cliffs, the selective and dizzy crags of Punta Giradili.
Two crags, Castello and Isola del Tesoro facing west, and Palazzo d’Inverno facing east with over 200 one-pitch sport routes, mostly from 6a upwards with steep, fingery and technical climbing on superb rock.
The San Giorgio Gorge is situated above the little town of Osini and forms the natural gateway to the higher karstic plains of the Tacco of Ulassai. The routes are all short or of medium length, with a super-easy access (right above the road) and are in one of Sardinia’s coolest places temperature-wise.
The only crag with bolted routes in the Seui area is found on the east side of the long wall of Monte Tonneri, ideal for summer mornings in a very panoramic spot with great mountain views.
Talana’s only climb is found above the road which from Lotzorai leads to Urzulei, a multipitch route on granite reminiscent of the Val di Mello, one of the world’s sanctuaries for alpine rock climbing, near to Sondrio, in North Italy.
Ulassai has two separate crags, the Cascate Lequarci and the canyon Sa Tappara. There is a new steep sector, the Cave of Dream, facing NW.
Urzulei offers two recently developed crags: Genna Croce, one of the island’s highest crags and the huge face of Punta Cocuttos in the “Gole Su Gorroppu”, world-famous thanks to the very difficult super-route Hotel Supramonte. Also interesting are the multipitch routes of Serra Oseli, yet again on great rock and in a setting of primordial beauty, as well as the crags underneath, again made of rock of exceptional quality.
In Ussassai only recently are the crags being developed: the two splendid pinnacles at Niala, with over 40 routes with spectacular routes of up to 100m in length.